Day 20: Do or Do Not, There Is No Try

4/5/20, Mile: 193, elevation: 6,703 ft.

So this is it, this is the day. I either complete this traverse or I don’t. I need to be on the ball, focused and to pay attention to the weather. Up till now, I’ve had gloriously sunny days and decent temps. With an incoming system, who knows? I also need to be honest with myself at the “checkpoint” at mile 185, my last chance to bail out if it doesn’t look possible for me.

I was awake before the 0400 alarm. During the night, I swear I heard music from the houses below, and then later the wind was howling again, adding to my uneasiness. Moist socks, wet boots and a moist tent to start the day. The snow was solid and the trail was easy to follow, even with a headlamp. So for the first 2-ish miles, I climbed 1,000-ft. up and over 9,000 ft. elevation. Along the way, I walked into another sunrise.

The trail now turns west, becoming exposed to the near vertical faces of the mountains above Idyllwild. Despite the elevation, I expected the trail to be mostly snow free and more easily passable. It also continually drops in elevation. And for once, I was mostly right. There was some snow for the first half mile or so, but then it was easily managable (nothing really dangerous like previous days). And I also finally got to flowing water, so no snow to melt. It was perfect hiking conditions; temps in the 40’s, sunny and clear and no wind. My speed picked up and so did my spirits. The views weren’t too bad, either. I reached the first of two bailout points (mile 183.5) at 0900-ish just after entering San Jacino State Park; the snow was solid, the weather still perfect, and I felt stronger than ever, so onward I went.

I soon ran into a couple making breakfast just off the trail. They had planned to summit the mountain today after camping last night, but the conditions and incoming weather was shooing them off the mountain. The funniest thing happened once they found out I’ve been hiking the PCT since 3/17; “Do you know about the virus?”

Soon after leaving them, the trail goes into the trees and turns north, meaning more shade, less sun exposure….and more snow (still very solid). Back to wearing crampons. After the trail intersection for the summit, the PCT is much less traveled, so the path isn’t well compacted and doesn’t seem to navigate well. With the conditions and crampons, I can take smoother, easier paths. But all is not perfect, I’ve been hiking for several hours and this portion of the trail starts climbing again, getting close again to 9,000 ft. Lucky for me, the last available water source for the day is also the last high spot. And what a glorious one it is. A creek crossing bare of snow and in the sun. I very nice break spot, thank you very much.

After this, the trail descends along a slope and has quite a few switchbacks. Portions are bare, others snow covered. Once I remove my crampons (the sound of steel spikes on granite is worse than chalkboard screeching, by-the-by), of course there are areas where they’d be nice to have. Oh well.

And now Fuller Ridge. It’s now afternoon and I’m getting worried of the snow softening. But again, lucky me, the trail is mostly on the northern slope, and the clouds have moved in, providing shade to extend the snow firmness. Still, no time to dilly dally. The slopes here are steep and previous hikers seem to just walk where they want. I’ve found that the trail tread through here is the most efficient and safest, so that’s where I walk. There’s a portion here where the trail is on the southwestern exposure, so the snow is skimpy, but now I’m exposed to the wind…and the clouds now make me cold. Oh, and the trail climbs again. My steps are reduced to the minimum rise required, and barely more than heel to toe. My breathing is labored, but when I stop to catch it, I get chilled. I didn’t think I’d wish to be on snow again, but at least there the wind is blocked and the trail will continue to descend. And then the views! At one point I can see Mounts Baldy and Baden Powell (VERY snow covered way north) which I’ll get to see in a couple of weeks, as well as where the PCT crosses the I-10 over 7,000-ft below me (2 days away). Amazing.

The final 2 miles of Fuller Ridge proper drag on. A couple of times I posthole when I miss a previous footpad. I’m getting tired and starting to slip and trip. No danger of really sliding far, but getting back up takes more energy. I gotta stay focused. But I’m tired (exhausted?), hungry, thirsty and have cold wet feet. A little pick-me-up happens when I see that Loud Cloud had already passed through, good for him!

I finally get to the campground and road access, done with Fuller Ridge. It’s windy, cloudy and cold. I’m half hoping for a trail angel or a big party waiting to celebrate my “finish”. Nope. All alone. And I’m not done yet. I still have 3 more miles to get to the first snow-free and wind protected campsite. And I need to find water. My knee is killing me, I’m using my trekking poles more than ever and I just want the day to end. With no visible running water in my future, I conceed to collecting snow and melting it later.

I get off the trail at the site around 4:30, over 11 hours and 14-ish miles on trail today. The wind is driving clouds from the summits over me, along with a light drizzle. I struggle to get the tent up efficiently while trying to keep it and my stuff dry. And every now and then, huge gusts can be heard coming, which then circle around the terrain and blast me and the tent. I could try to get lower in elevation, but hell no. Home is where you throw your hat and trekking poles on the ground in exhaustion.

Savior out.

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