7/29/20; mile: 1,425; elevation: 3,071 ft.
Well the agreement I had with the ants last night fell apart, they decided to change directions. It just so happened that my sleeping spot was in their way. Lucky for me, they didn’t crawl over my ground sheet or sleeping bag, but went around it. They did decide to explore many of my items scattered around me, though. Like my water filter….including inside. Argggg.
The morning view wasn’t too shabby, with a view of Mt. Shasta through the light smokey haze. It’s going to be another warm day, but at least I’m through the worst of the Hat Creek Rim. After yesterday’s trudge in the sun, I’m jonesing for water, which isn’t too far ahead (well 7-miles doesn’t seem that far to me anymore, YMMV). I’m also making a pit stop at the Burney Guest Ranch for some refreshments (Coke and ice cream!) as well as some things to carry me to I5 (Castella/Mt. Shasta).
Walking off of the rim, the trail descends down through an area of lava rock, which really sucks. It’s tough on the shoes and feet, and the extra traction can actually cause you to trip if you happen to drag a foot over the top of a protruding rock. Fun fun. But that ends after a short while, and the trail flattens out. While there are still many scrub oaks around, there gets to be more grassy areas, almost like a savanna. The lighting of the early part of the day just emphasizes the feeling. No lion roars, though. Thank you very much.
I’m out of water, the temp is rising but thank Dog I’m walking more in the trees now. There’s a stretch of trail here with an abundance of water, but it’s short-lived. As a dry hiker, I can smell it. I can feel it. And pretty soon, the trail passes an above ground water pipe. From Guthooks, I know that I’m close. REAL close. Before I can immerse myself in the abundant creek, I’m shocked to see a friend from many miles (and months ago). The Trooper! After I suggested the name for him way back in Acton, he decided to take it. I haven’t seen him since Mother’s Day, but my friend Heiny has been giving me updates on his progress from Instagram. It’s quite hilarious how much we look alike in our thru-hiker “uniforms”. So while we catch up on our lives I drink a lot of water, fill my bottles and rinse my socks and feet in the creek.
After so many days of the trail being somewhat “wild”, it’s strange to cross roads, be near infrastructure, and seeing non-hikers out and about. The trail passes by the Crystal Lake fish hatchery and the lake, which happens to be a fabulous fishing spot (so I read), so there are a lot of people about, just not on the trail. It’s like I’m passing through a kind of safari exhibit.
The turnoff to the Burney Guest Ranch is only a couple of miles away, which is a relief. Except it’s hot. Any extra miles (and time) in this heat is draining. This very dry terrain (unless you’re right down next to the lake or Hat Creek). Despite being officially closed for the season due to Covid, the Guest Ranch is still providing services to hikers. They have a small store with hiker-centric foods and snacks, even fuel cannisters. They also have rooms and showers.
When I arrive, some of the cuddle puddle is there, as well as Bambi and Polar Bear. And surprise of surprises, there’s Sidewinder. Most of them are getting off trail here today for a break in nearby Burney. As we chit chat and work on our resupplies, we eat and drink. And eat and drink. The ranch even has single-sized microwaveable foods made here. Not cheap, but worth every penny. We may be a captive market, but we’re a hungry one. But we’re also a small and short-term customer base and this place isn’t really close to a large and they’re off-grid. Thank you for being here!
A big concern for us is the fire that started north of us near Lake McCloud. It’s near enough to the PCT that it could cause a closure if the fire grows. It’s not big enough to be a real safety concern (yet), nor put out a lot of smoke to make it unhealthy. But is the trail really closed (or will it be)? We don’t know. So, hike on until you know. If it is closed when I get there, there’s a myriad of roads and trails in the area that I can use to hike around it.
Time to move on. Next highlight, Burney Falls. But first, hot and dry hiking through the scrub brush and oaks. At one point, I’m hiking with Cool Runnings. As we hike and break together, I get to learn about his engineering career working for Subaru NA. We share boss stories and generally discuss life and what makes us tick. Soon after a longer break, he puts it into high gear and disappears in a dust cloud to catch up with Vader.
We bunch up again at the campground at the falls. It’s closed due to Covid, but right on the trail there is a spot with picnic tables (in the sun), vault toilets and a running water faucet. That’s all we need, thank you very much. They want to see the falls. Me? No thank you. It’s late in the day, I’m hot and tired. I don’t want to take a side trip today, even for a waterfall in this heat. I live close enough to this that I’ll make a motorcycle trip out of the visit. I just want to get more miles in and get to camp.
I may sound miserable, but I’m not really, just in a mood. When I’m like this, I just need to do me. So I do. The trail parallels roads in the park, and then crosses the Lake Britton dam. By this time, I’m alone and have my earbuds in. For some reason, crossing the dam and the music elicits a burst of energy from me. I literally dance my way across (hoping not to get hit by a car in the process). And now we’re back to a real trail. And it climbs. And climbs. Ahh, the joy of walking the terrain.
In a couple of miles, the slinky compresses again at Rock Creek, the next reliable water source. I’m with Vader, Cool Runnings, Bambi and Polar Bear. We stop at the bridge to gather water and look for a campsite. It’s getting late, and I get impatient trying to find a spot while leaving room for everyone else. So I decide to just get water and go a bit further. The terrain looks flatter in the trees just 1/4-mile ahead. By the time I’m done setting up my tent, it’s past sunset and dark in the trees. Bambi and Polar Bear joined me, but we don’t take a lot of time conversing. Chores need to be done.
It’s been another long day, about 26 miles. The terrain varied widely and it was strenuous on the body. And more so on my feet. These long days and rough terrain are taking a toll. Despite washing my socks and feet as often as possible, I’m still getting hot spots. I need to take care of this. But what to do?
Savior out.