6/19/20: mile: 853; elevation: 8,481 ft.
Another early alarm, another tired morning. Being 3-1/2 miles from the summit, and this pass in particular is known for having long stretches of snow on both sides of the pass, I needed another early start. By 4:15 I was on the trail, the only real enjoyment was the crunch of the frozen snow which started soon after I started. Soon after starting, I ran into Aussie, whom I haven’t seen since Crabtree Meadows after his Whitney summit. And up ahead, low and behold it’s Joshua and Ya again. Those two are ALWAYS together, always early risers and late hikers. Amazing. As I approach the first snow section, I run across several tents, with most of the occupants just waking. As I introduce myself, I hear the familiar voice of Pac Man (the young woman from Chile) who I haven’t seen since the Acton KOA campground way back in the desert. She’s now Coyote, and has adopted a new group of women friends who are tackling the John Muir Trail. This is such a lovely reunion, helping to lift me out of my funk. Did I mention I’m tired?
The snow climbing isn’t treacherous, it’s just sloped and slippery so the microspikes make you feel like a god. I summit at the Muir hut around 7:00, not too shabby time to climb up here. It’s a gorgeous morning, not too cold, not a cloud in the sky and we have a kitten. Dave was adopted and named after the owner of the Bud Pharm in Wildwood (the second cat from there to go on the PCT in the last two years, the last one was named Trail Bait). He was having a blast chasing the mice inside the hut as well as exploring the top of my pack. The hut itself is quite an amazing structure, I can’t imagine the work it took in these conditions at this altitude.
Worries of the snow softening gets me moving again within 30 minutes or so. There’s still something like 3 miles of gently sloping snow fields that are starting to sprout sun cups, and I’m also worried about mud and slush as the day goes on. But once off the snow, I get some time to look around and really enjoy the scenery. As well as debate the benefits of baby wipes versus manly “wipes”. Guess which I prefer?
Aussie, Gemma, Dave and I stop for a snack on a granite slab next to the creek running off of the snow fields. Once back on trail, Dave takes his own sweet time to catch up, not always being carried on this little adventure of his. After this, we slowly part ways at different speeds. The trail descends back into the trees, paralleling Evolution Creek, leading eventually to a normally notorious creek crossing for us. But not this year. Along this stretch, I take a lone break at a place that reminds me of a place my nephew used to call “The Glorious Place” at our vacation spot in the Trinity Alps. A small stream cascades next to the trail, ferns and other greenery abound, and I gently close my eyes….
At some point here, Pied Piper catches and passes me, Joshua, Ya and Coyote catch up. We all have different ideas of where we’re stopping, but Coyote ends up camping with me. I gift her some baby wipes (you all know my preference) to help her extend her run to Mammoth Lakes. We spend a long time talking about life, the trail and the things we’re searching for. She’s in the unfortunate position as having a visa timeline, so she won’t be able to hike the entire trail. She’s bummed, but has also decided to enjoy the parts that she can.